Front suspension arm replacement on W201 and W124

The reason for replacing my bottom left suspension arm is its complete unworthiness due to it being bent after my vehicle has crashed into a concrete street curb.

 

Further driving has become unbearable, or better to say impossible. The wheel stayed too close to the wheel arch and produced an unpleasant raspy noise, such as someone would pull a heavy metal box along the pavement.

Moreover, the steering wheel won’t stand straight and the car attempted to go left. The speed as you may understand couldn’t be more than 15 mph, which made other drivers laughing at me.

 

To proceed with the repair the following details have been bought

1. A new bottom suspension arm for 300$ (holy cow!)… I wouldn’t buy of course. An old used one with a “good ball socket that will definitely work for a while” has been bought for 30$.

2. A set of silent blocks for 27$ by Kaya company that by the way didn’t appear to have any visible or palpable difference nor from the original one for 60$, nor from the other ones for 40$.

3. Two screw-bolts for 6$ each.

Part 1: “The motorcar jack removal”
A decision has been made to remove the curved suspension arm and replace it with a normal one to fix the problems mentioned above. As a member of w201club.com, I would be ashamed to let any of the Mercedes mechanics or anybody else proceed with such a simple (at first sight) repair. I was afraid that someone could harm my beloved car – either by inadvertence or due to any other intentions.

A lift platform… What a wonderful thing. But I don’t have one in my garage, so I had to lift the left side of my car with a motorcar jack. To get to the unfortunate suspension arm I had to screw out the following details (basically almost everything): the cushion pad, the shock absorber, the support and the steering gear connection (just in case) As a result, I was able to remove the coil spring! To remove it and get full access to the bottom suspension arm I have purchased a special side-on coil spring remover, which bounced into me each time it experienced any minimal pressure. Many unquotable words have been pronounced towards the inventor of the device and after a week of seeking another wonderful remover has been found that performed perfectly.

 

Having lowered the suspension arm I have finally got to the screws that were holding it. Unscrewing them appeared to be anything but simple: even a two-feet reamer holder didn’t demonstrate any tangible results. The screw was stuck very firmly in the silent block. An extension piece seemed to have got things moving and finally the screw-nut has crashed. “That’s it”, I thought, “The end”.

I somehow managed to collect all the details, placed the wheel back and went for a ride towards the mechanics I knew had a lift platform.

Part two: “The power of a lift platform”
I was surprised to find out that the mechanic whom I knew have purchased silver Mercedes 190 manufactured in 1991 just a couple of months ago. This helped me to find a common language with him and I insisted on him becoming a member of w201club.com. The mechanic promised to visit our forum, but he didn’t actually like the idea because he didn’t have any PC. However he was happy to be invited to our new Mercedes club meeting. The lift platform has relieved the mechanic from the necessity of removing the details mentioned above as well as purchasing a coil spring remover, and the whole procedure didn’t take much time. All he needed to do is unscrew the hob from the ball socket and two screw-bolts.

But the screw-bolts appeared to be a problem. We had to… saw them!

Firstly we were sawing the suspension arm itself and after that we had to saw the screw-bolts themselves that were at a dead set in the rests of silent blocks.

Two cutoff wheels have been spent in total. After that a simple procedure of inserting new silent blocks into the straight suspension arm took place.

Did you know?
Silent blocks are lubricated with soap water (you can’t use oil lubricants) and are pressed in a vice, thereby the rubber points of the silent block should correspond to the heat seal on the suspension arm. Or, the thinning-out on the rubber part of a silent block should be perpendicular to the seal.

After that the suspension arm has been emplaced.

The mechanic asked for 35$ for the two hours oh his work. And… A miracle! The car didn’t move as an injured turtle anymore! And although I still had to fix the steering wheel position (the car still attempts to move sideward), I was very happy having done the camber – now I’m once again a driver and not a pedestrian.

Privoded by dk-spb

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *